Watching the Dries Van Noten’s Fall Winter 2016/2017 ready-to-wear fashion show with its Decadent mood, makes you feel the same sensations you would experience listening a melancholic song you like over and over.
In the same way there are runways that you would like to watch again and again even if they leave in your mouth a bitter taste.
Bitter or not this is a collection which at least makes you feel something, and therefore it is difficult to forget.
The atmosphere could not be nothing but penetrating given the inspiration of the designer which is the Decadentism.
More in particular, Dries Van Noten’s muse for this season was the eccentric couple composed by Marchesa Casati and Gabriele D’Annunzio.
The show would not be the same without the effective, explicit references to the two lovers: the soundtrack was D’Annunzio’s poem “La pioggia nel pineto” while the make-up was a clear homage to Marchesa Casati’s iconic one.
These two elements of the show help the creation of a story:
the catwalk becomes a street, models are modern Marchesa Casati who have just left D’Annunzio’s house, where he read her his poem, which is the one we hear in the background.
The risk with historical inspiration is that garments could become costumes, but Dries Van Noten succeeded in giving a Decadent touch to contemporary
(better to say timeless) silhouettes. Indeed the mood was given by the colors (black, ivory, blue, gold, burgundy, bottle green, emerald, amethyst, malachite, purple, amber) by the use of fabrics as velvet and that of fur which recall the fact that Marchesa Casati’s pets were cheetahs.
As reported by Vogue what intrigued Dries Van Noten so much to make a collection on the couple D’Annunzio-Casati is that “They pushed decadence as a lifestyle, but were never happy” which is what we perceive through this fashion show.